I'm including the painting in such detail, because that's one of the biggest misconceptions about 2mm gaming. For those who've only ever gamed in 28mm or 20mm, the small blocks of lead can seem like counters. Why not just play with tokens? Hopefully this quick post will shed some light on why I love this scale so much.
The key to painting in any scale is to give an impression of reality. If you look at even the most talented 28mm painters, their models would look terrifyingly unreal if they were scaled up to life size. Their skill is making them look like they are life sized figures which have been scaled down. The same is true for 2mm - give an overall impression, and we do that by combining main uniform colours with the occasional tiny detail. On a 28mm model, that tiny detail might be a badge, the model's eyes, or a wooden stock. On a 2mm model, it's the heads and the banners.
Often I try and photograph my 2mm models sympathetically, that is, from a distance so you can see how they look on the table. However, these have been photographed ruthlessly close up, and I've even fiddled with the light levels to show you how much (or rather how little) detail you need on these tiny figures to give a great impression. I think there's a natural reluctance to show 2mm models at this scale; we try to always give 'finished' impressions of our armies. Hopefully this will lift the lid on just how small scale painting is done.
|This is my temporary paint station, the one I use when I'm staying in the mess at work. It's pretty basic, but I can be very productive as there's little else to distract me.|
|A slightly better picture of some cuirassiers. You can see the different horse colours, the white-undercoated tunics, with a black dot on the head to represent the hat.|
|And the same from the front. The front rank get a small blob of flesh paint on the head to give the impression of a face.|